Roof
The Truth About Roofs PDF Print E-mail
Saturday, 15 November 2008 15:00
You can"t have too many roofs in your inventory without dealing with leaks. If you rehab, you EXPECT to find ceiling stains, the tell tale sign of a leaky roof, in almost every project. I find projects without signs of past or present leaks the exception to the norm!

Sometimes shingles are just going to need replaced. There is no getting around it. Curled shingles, and numerous leaks are a pretty good indication that it would be cheaper to replace the roof rather than repair. Just factor that into the repairs and accept it. It"s one thing you won"t have to worry about if you are keeping the property, and it ups the value whether you keep it or sell it on the retail market after the rehab.

If the shingles still have some life on them, but there is some leakage to repair, finding the real source of the problem can take multiple tries. It can get pretty aggravating as you sometimes try and fail to fix a leaky roof. Naturally, you want to try to fix this without calling out an expensive professional roofer. Sometimes you can, sometimes you can"t. Here are some tips for diagnosing roof leaks.

- I find that in the course of a rehab, it"s always "good" to have an extended period of heavy rains. That way, any and all leaks become evident. If you have a property that is not occupied, or that is not being actively rehabbed after a period of extended rains, go visit and check for signs of leaks. If you can stop by while it"s still raining, that"s the number one, best time to investigate leaks from inside the attic.

- Get a mini flashlight that goes into a small belt holster and make that part of your normal clothing. You will use it all the timeÂ…for more than looking in attics! It"s great for plumbing, under cabinets, etc. Make it part of the "uniform."

- The garden hose - a rehabber"s friend. In a recent project of mine, the roof was relatively new yet I had a ceiling stain in the kitchen. We"d thought it was all taken care of in two tries, so we patched the ceiling, applied stain block, and textured over the spot. Then came the rains, and the circular and symmetrical spot was back! I"d had just about enough so I climbed onto the roof, garden hose in hand, and stationed my handyman in the attic. In less than a minute of hosing down the roof we found the very tiny hole that was the culprit. A dab of tar below and above the shingle and viola! Problem solved. The tiny hole was causing water to drip directly onto the ceiling drywall, hence the circular stain.

- Watch for stain patterns. The pattern can offer you hints. When you come across a circular ceiling stain, there"s a good chance the leak is dripping directly onto the ceiling dry wall from above. Put a nail in the center of the stain and get into the attic and look directly above the nail and you might just find the problem. If you do this in bright daylight, a spec of light might be visible, which would make the repair a little easier. Even if you find a hole, I still recommend the garden hose trick to see if there are other problems to fix.

If the stain is small and circular, it usually means the amount of water is smallÂ…lucky you. If the stain region is larger, it may still be an easy fix especially if it is a single hole. If there is enough rain making onto the ceiling drywall, it will pool and soak in. This will make it look like a massive leak, when it might be a one-shingle repair (plus some new ceiling drywall). The garden hose trick will quickly tell you if the problem is a single hole, or your roof is like Swiss cheese.

Stains that appear along a line may indicate that water is draining along a rafter or truss. Inspect that rafter starting from the top looking for signs of water. The source may be a single hole that is sending water down the rafter making multiple stains show up in a line.

- Isolating the leak. Be aware of the ridgeline. When you are inspecting a property, be aware of the direction the roof ridgeline runs as you inspect the interior. If you come across a ceiling stain toward the middle of the house near where the ridgeline is above you, the source of the water is easier to isolate. Water doesn"t flow up! So, the suspect area extends from roughly the stain area, up to the ridgeline. In many cases, that"s a lot less roof to investigate.

On the other hand when stains are out near the roof edges, they are the trickiest to diagnose. Why? The source of the water could be from higher in the roof than where the stain is. The water could be getting under a shingle near the peak, draining down between the shingles and ply, and finally leaking at the point you are seeing the stain. It"s just hard to tell upon initial inspection. Get into the roof and check out the rafters around that area for signs of water stains? If you"re lucky you"ll see light and a hole. If you"re not that lucky, it"s time to get on the roof and see what you can find. If you don"t find anything obvious, it"s time to call a rooferÂ…that is, unless you decide to replace the whole roof.

- Valleys are often the culprit when it comes to leaky roofs. I especially find this in property that has been neglected or vacant for long periods of time. Very often the problem is caused because leaves have accumulated in the valley. These leaves hold moisture which rots the shingles and underlying ply over time. Depending on the extent of the rot, the repair can range from replacing ply and shingles to cleaning off the leaves and letting it dry. Be aware of your roof valleys and keep them clear!

With roof leaks, there are no short cuts. It"s easier and cheaper in the long run to aggressively diagnose the leak problem and seek hidden leaks that just haven"t soaked through the ceiling drywall yet. Don"t assume that once you find one hole in the roof, or a cracked shingle that the problem is fixed. Get that hose out and confirm it! There is something about climbing in an attic and on a roof that isn"t fun to re-do.

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

---------- Bruce W. Ford publishes the "Nothing Held Back" newsletter, a free service of Rehab Real Estate Central (www.Rehab-Real-Estate.com). Get a free copy of his mini-course entitled "The Mind of the Real Estate Investor by clicking here!."

 
Flat Roofs PDF Print E-mail
Saturday, 08 November 2008 05:00
Flat roofs are a great way to keep a building safe from water. Knowing exactly what to do with a flat roof will ensure you have a working roof system that will last a long time.

Though they may look good, and are very common, flat roofs do require routine maintenance and detailed repair in order to effectively prevent water infiltration. If this is done correctly, youÂ’ll be happy with your flat roof for a very long time.

Flat roofs arenÂ’t as glamorous and/or popular as its newer counterparts, such as slate, tile, or copper roofs. However, they are just as important and require even more attention. In order to avoid throwing away money on short-term repairs, you should know exactly how flat roof systems are designed, the various types of flat roofs that are available, and the importance of routine inspection and maintenance.

A flat roof system works by providing a waterproof membrane over a building. It consists of one or more layers of hydrophobic materials that is placed over a structural deck with a vapor barrier that is typically placed between the deck and the roof membrane.

Flashing, or thin strips of material such as copper, intersect with the membrane and the other building components to prevent water infiltration. The water is then directed to drains, downspouts, and gutters by the roofÂ’s slight pitch.

There are four most common types of flat roof systems. Listed in order of increasing durability and cost, they are: roll asphalt, single-ply membrane, multiple-ply or built-up, and flat-seamed metal. They can range anywhere from as low as $2 per square foot for roll asphalt or single-ply roofing that is applied over and existing roof, to $20 per square foot or more for new metal roofs.

Used since the 1890s, asphalt roll roofing generally consists of one layer of asphalt-saturated organic or fiberglass base felts that are applied over roof felt with nails and cold asphalt cement and usually covered with a granular mineral surface. The seams are typically covered over with a roofing compound. It can last about 10 years.

Single-ply membrane roofing is the newest type of roofing material. It is often used to replace multiple-ply roofs. 10 to 12 year warranties are typical, but proper installation is crucial and maintenance is still required.

Multiple-ply or built-up roofing, also known as BUR, is made of overlapping rolls of saturated or coated felts or mats that are interspersed with layers of bitumen and surfaced with a granular roofing sheet, ballast, or tile pavers that are used to protect the underlying materials from the weather. BURs are designed to last 10 to 30 years, which depends on the materials used.

Ballast, or aggregate, of crushed stone or water-worn gravel is embedded in a coating of asphalt or coal tar. Since the ballast or tile pavers cover the membrane, it makes inspecting and maintaining the seams of the roof difficult.

Lastly, flat-seamed roofs have been used since the 19 th century. Made from small pieces of sheet metal soldered flush at the joints, it can last many decades depending on the quality of the material, maintenance, and exposure to the elements.

Galvanized metal does require regular painting in order to avoid corrosion and split seams need to be resoldered. Other metal surfaces, such as copper, can become pitted and pinholed from acid raid and usually requires replacing. Today copper, lead-coated copper, and terne-coated stainless steel are favored as long-lasting flat roofs.

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com

Roof Resources and Information around the theme

 
Roof Cleaning - Making Your Old Roof Look Like New! PDF Print E-mail
Friday, 13 June 2008 01:00

Many Florida residents that have come from the North are surprised by the idea of roof cleaning - and even more surprised by the fact that many communities here in Florida require it. Reasons for cleaning include aesthetics, property values, energy efficiency, and increased longevity of the roof.

Whatever the main reason, if it is going to be done, it is your best interest to know what choices are available to you. A quality roof should last upwards of 30 years if cared for and maintained properly. Unfortunately, many roofs here in Florida (and increasingly throughout the US) are subjected to unnecessary stress while cleaning the greatly reduces the life expectancy of the roof. With repeated roof cleaning comes certain pitfalls that every homeowner, property manager, and professional cleaner should be aware of in order to avoid damage to property, unnecessary repair costs, and the premature replacement of the roof.

WHY HAS THE ROOF TURNED BLACK?
The black streaking typically found on homes in areas where moisture settles on shingles is not caused by mildew or fungus; it’s roof algae. 3M scientists have identified the most common form as Gloeocapsa Magma. Algae spores are carried b the wind, which is why so many houses in the neighborhood can end up with this problem. During the last 20 years, this particular algae strain has become hardier and so has been able to migrate to less humid environments than it has in the past. And in areas where it traditionally has been found, the staining is showing up earlier, is more severe and settles on a greater number of roofs.

HOW CAN IT BE CLEANED?
Typical roof cleaning methods involve either pressure cleaning or chemical solutions containing Chlorine Bleach or Sodium Hydroxide. If used properly, these methods will clean the roof with minimal adverse impact - but the effects can be very temporary and will generally have to be repeated every 6-18 months in order to maintain the appearance of the roof.

WHAT IS THE BEST CLEANING METHOD?
Each method has its advantages and disadvantages.

A chlorine and water solution can be used followed by a thorough rinse. Of course, since chlorine can be toxic to people and plants, proper care should be taken to protect employees and the surrounding property from overspray and runoff. The benefits to using chlorine include a much faster cleaning process and minimal rinsing as compared to other methods. This translates into much less wear & tear on the roof - particularly asphalt shingle roofs.

Sodium Hydroxide based cleaners are generally advertised as safer for the landscaping, but sodium hydroxide is caustic, very toxic, and care should also be used to protect employees and surrounding property. Sodium hydroxide is also a very effective degreaser. So high levels of sodium hydroxide in a cleaning product can cause damage to an asphalt shingle roof that can be irreversible. These products generally require much more rinsing than the chlorine method. The rinsing process is not only time consuming, but it can also be potentially damaging to the roof if not done correctly. A quality sodium hydroxide based product should not require any more than 100 psi to effectively rinse an asphalt shingle roof and even then some granule loss should be expected.

Pressure cleaning is an option that should only be used on a concrete, barrel tile, or metal roofs. Pressure cleaning has the advantage of not requiring chemicals, which eliminates some of the cost - in addition to landscaping and chemical exposure concerns. The down side to pressure cleaning is that it is very time consuming and it exerts tremendous force on a surface that is not really designed to handle it. In addition, repeated pressure cleaning can wear away the surface of some tiles that are only covered by a thin layer of coloring. When this happens, the grey concrete color starts to show through and the roof must be stained or painted.

THESE METHODS ARE NOT LONG-TERM SOLUTIONS.
While these methods are relatively safe and effective when done properly, repeated use will lead to premature aging of the roof. The natural erosion that occurs over tie from the basic forces of heat, cold, wind, and rain alone are enough to weaken most roofs to the point where annual inspections and minor repairs are necessary to prevent significant repair costs. But when the roof is repeatedly subjected to high pressure or harsh chemicals, the aging of the roof structure is significantly accelerated. With repeated cleaning, tiles are more likely to shift, slip, or break and asphalt shingles are more likely to become brittle and crack. When this happens, there is a greater likelihood of tearing the roof membrane simply by walking on the roof. Once gaps are created in the roof and subsequent pressure cleaning or chemical cleaning takes place, these gaps provide the water or caustic solutions a path to the roof membrane and increase the chance of costly roof leaks.

WHAT IS THE ALTERNATIVE?
A proper program of preventative maintenance will eliminate the need for future cleaning and the potential for damage that comes along with it. Preventing the recurrence of the algae growth will require a light spray of chlorine and water or an algae prevention product.

Most quality algaecides will last for approximately 6-12 months before reapplication of the product is necessary. Obviously, the longer the time frame, the better your chances are of minimizing and unnecessary damage to the roof. Prevention programs should be done in conjunction with neighbors whenever possible and many can be applied without a need for walking on the roof.

One important mote about algaecides: Algaecide products are regulated at both the state and federal level. Any algaecide product used on a roof requires EPA registration as a pesticide or biocide and approval for use on a roof. Contractors found violating the law in this regard cold find themselves facing fines up to $10,000. per occurrence.

John Browne
Roof-A-Cide, Inc.

For additional information on Professional Roof Cleaning and Algae Prevention, please visit our webstite: http://www.Roof-A-Cide.com/ or call 800/806-6727

 
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